THE MUSE AT THE MONTAGE

225 North Canon Drive
Beverly Hills, CA 90210
310. 860-7800

Elegance, Grace and Style

Walk the halls of the new Montage Hotel in Beverly Hills, and you’ll think it’s been there since someone planted the palm trees on Beverly Drive. Climb the stairs to what The Dining Duo believes to be L.A.’s only 4 star, white glove restaurant, and you’ll find an evening of incomparable proportions. This is not your typical hotel restaurant.

Upstairs from the lively lounge, this private and clubby room is complete with ornate low-coffered wood ceilings, rich dark mahogany wood paneling, and picturesque bottles of wine. A few tasteful oil paintings offset the crisp linen clothed tables, each set with a solitary red rose for a dash of vibrant color. With no more than 44 seats, Muse is intimate and personal; a quiet haven in busy Beverly Hills where one can enjoy elegant food and impeccable, unpretentious, friendly, flawless service.

The best bet here is to ask John Cuevas, the well-seasoned chef (formerly of the fabulous Loft and Studio Restaurant, at the Montage Laguna Beach), to create a multi-course meal for you and be surprised by his creativity and arrangements. Multiple runners deliver each course to your table at exactly the same moment so no one at the table ever waits a single second to be served. The handsome sommelier Mark Hefter, is beyond knowledgeable for his 31 years, about food, wine and all things having to do with dining (he cut his teeth at Le Cirque, amongst other top notchers). So ask him to pair tasty wine selections with your courses. One of our favorites, the Catena Malbec is THE Argentinean wine that is full bodied with a hint of spice to match the dish with which it was served ($42 bottle). We loved it so much we thought about pairing it with the entire meal.

You’ll start with a selection of several piping hot breads, including the winner of the triad and our favorite, the miche bread with caramelized onions and pecorino cheese; but be careful, there is a lot to eat here, so don’t fill up on bread. We loved the Ahi tuna tartar, which particularly pleased our palettes ($22). It was served in a “banana boat” on the end of chopsticks for easy access to our mouths and proved to be a tremendous burst of flavor. For a twist on Foie Gras, Chef’s take is never sweet, and there is no rich extracted sauce. It was a particularly scrumptious, creamy dish that was served with an unusual presentation of dipping sauce. Mark paired this savory dish with The Dolce sauterne-style wine from Napa ($35 per glass); the combo drove us wild for more.

Of particular notice, the lamb ($40) is simply superb and proved to be the best dish on the menu; if not perhaps the best lamb preparation we’ve ever experienced.
It is served medium rare with a topping of feta. The highest quality of the meat melted in our mouths. This is the stand up dish on the menu and after several visits, consistently proves to enliven our taste buds. So did Luke, the big, handsome, hunky Manager who makes eating the tablecloth seem worthwhile.

Even the purses are treated well here. The thoughtful hostess provided a small bench for our mother’s purse, so she didn’t have to put it on what one might think is “the dirty floor” (although, I can assure this place is so neat and clean, we probably could have eaten off the carpet). Nice, elegant touch. Equally elegant is not to be “nickel an dimed” by silly charges for water; either flat or sparkling water is served at no charge, and the sparkling water is interestingly called Antipodes. Not to be overlooked, Pastry Chef, Maren Henderson (formerly of Charlie Palmer and Montage) always delivers dessert creations that make us scrape the bottom of the plate.

For urban folks on the run and into a “scene”, the pacing of the meal may at first seem slow, however, for folks like the Dining Duo and Scott’s mom, they adored it and call it “Dining”. Bravo!

Encore Encore Encore, Part 3 of 3

Bartolotta

Let’s start off by saying Paul Bartolotta is a James Beard winner that, of course, sets the stage for a meal of paramount importance. His goal is to transport the guest to a restaurant in Italy. He met his goal, and took home a gold medal.

Although the inside of the restaurant is of a beautifully articulated Mediterranean décor, it’s all about the outside dining here. Waltzing down a twirling staircase, then exiting to the outdoors, it’s difficult not to audibly gasp. A series of olive and white-stripped cabanas surround a small lagoon dotted with mirrored globes; just the Vegas touch to remind you of where you are. As if you’re in a cavern, you’re surrounded by a copse of trees and dazzled by the intimate setting as if the creation was waiting just for your arrival. Book way ahead for these much sought-after cabanas.

With all the fish flown in daily from Italy, we had an eating orgy by tasting twenty-two varieties of local Italian fish that were all micro chipped to insure absolute freshness and that none were older than 36 hours (in fact many are live in the restaurant).

There are so many sensational choices offered by Chef Paul that we will just highlight a few but suffice it to say, one can not go wrong with anything on the menu. Our favorites included the Ravioli di Ricotta con Caciotta Toscana ($15), which is sheep’s milk ravioli that literally melts in your mouth, with a Marsala wine glaze.

We also loved the Spaghetti con Ragu di Crostacei, ($20), which is a classic dish but then adds a load of lobster, shrimp and crab (that could not be any fresher), finished in a white wine sauce.

Each and every fish we tasted was delicious and fresh. We kept hoping to eliminate some of the 22 choices we tasted, but we must confess that any selection you make will be an outstanding one. We recommend reaching out of your comfort zone and tasting something that you just won’t find in America; we did, and it was like taking an exotic vacation to a far-flung fishing village. As authentically Italian as Chef B himself, we can’t wait to come back for some more scrumptious meals at this inviting and triumphant restaurant.

Wazuzu Revizzited
We couldn’t come back to the encore without revisiting Chef Jet Tila at Wazuzu (see our past review); try his Special Sushi platter ($60), and now his extraordinary Tom Kai Gar Soup ($12) is on the menu at our request and I’m sure many others have asked for it be added. Wazuzu is one of the best casual dining experiences in Las Vegas and is not be overlooked, especially if you’re having a yen for pan-Asian delights. Speaking of, Chef Jet is pretty delightful himself, so ask to meet him and tell him the Dining Duo sent you.

The Country Club
It’s really not about food here, it’s all about the exquisite setting. It’s hard to believe that you’re in Las Vegas when you take a seat on the balcony overlooking a giant waterfall and rolling hills of verdant golf links. With nothing but big sky beyond, we didn’t much study what were eating, but instead took in the delightful afternoon in nature, something completely missing from the hectic strip. It was like having a meal at our own private country club.

That said, I had a mango smoothie that was fresh and delicious and we suggest you try the open faced French Dip ($22), an updated recipe of a classic dish. They also have a great selection of burgers and our favorite was Smoked Chipolte Burger with guacamole and Ortega peppers which was spicy but won’t leave you hungry ($22).

Work it Off or Rub it Off

The Spa and Gym at the Encore are beyond beyond. We raved about the Spa the last time we were here, and it held up to our recollections the second time (for your convenience, see the sidebar for that story). We had no intention of exercising any of our muscles, but had we, the gym was large and complete with everything you could ever desire. We headed for the wet areas to soak and steam our bodies. This time, we decided to get couples massage in the tranquil—if not hypnotic—couples room. The amble from the men’s area down the walkway of Moroccan and Asian inspired treatment rooms immediately put us in a space that we wish we could bottle and take home with us. Once in the elegantly appointed room, complete with electric massage beds and a private wet area, we floated off to massage slumber with thoughts of sugar plum fairies dancing in our stomachs.

Now Shake Your Booty at the Pools

If you’re going to live like a Rock Star, you have to relax like one. There’s two choices: Cabanas at the Encore which are high energy pumping music and skin galore; or Cabanas at the Wynn, which wreak of elegance and exhibit a quietude exampled by fluttering sheers in the wind. Either one you choose is like having your own little house by the pool.

The first few days, we suggest booking Cabana #20 at the Encore because the energy will spur you on for more late nights, more shows, more gambling, more food, and much, much more people watching. We think this is the best cabana because it’s upstairs and thus removed from the steady thumping of the ubiquitous music, but close enough to the stairs and bathrooms to make it a perfect lookout point for the young flesh that’s pressing in the pool. It also gets sun almost all day because of its location relative to the high-rise buildings, with plenty of shade inside. Better than most hotel rooms, the cabana comes equipped with everything, including sofa, lounges, mini-bar, drinks, sound system, flat screen, telephone, towels and fantastic service, including that of Lui, who waited on our every need. If you forget to put sunscreen on, try the Lobster Roll and blend.

Once you’ve overdone it in L.V. with too much of everything, book Cabana #203 at the Wynn. Beyond elegant and evoking thoughts of Cannes or St. Tropez (sans attitude or throngs of people), these airy and incredibly spacious cabanas are so dreamy you won’t want to close your eyes and drift off into your own dreams. #203 has three openings and is therefore very breezy, not to mention you can see all aspects of the many pools from which you can choose to dip your ever-growing hiney. There’s even a private pool for just the few cabanas at this location. Complete with all the goodies that the Encore has, this locale exudes a sense of calm that evokes a hush over those enjoying around you; great for hangovers and such. Ask for Denise, the most fun and coolest “pool girl” you’ll meet in Vegas. She’ll follow your cue: if you want peace and quiet, she’ll accommodate you with gentle but attentive service, and if you want some high-energy fun, she’s right there in it. Try the Oreo’s with ice cream for a yummy snack.

The Dining Duo hasn’t figured out how to get the cabanas into our suitcases, so we’ll have to come back. Book ahead or you’ll probably find us in the two we suggested.

It sure seems like the Dining Duo has fallen in love with the Encore and the Wynn, and that's because we have! We've been all over Las Vegas and these two hotels simply offer it all. We almost never had to leave since there was everything we wanted here and more. It's been nice to hear the feedback from our readers on the first two parts of this story; so many of you have followed our advice and experienced the same level of satisfaction as we have. We're certain we'll be hearing a lot more from the rest of you. Until then, we'll be poolside in one of our favorite cabanas, taking in the scene, and planning our next meal.

Appetizingly yours,

The Dining Duo

Encore Hotel does it again; does it again -- part two of three

Botero

Six leather-clad columns surround an enormous Botero sculpture of a naked and zoftick woman who clearly has been enjoying the spoils of this most fabulous steak and fish house. Designed in the round, all the windows open to the grounds and the meandering pool. The tables are dressed in simple white cloths accompanying elegant svelte white leather chairs that offset the warm browns of the carpet, drapes and ceiling. With original Botero paintings on the walls, lit to perfection, to create the feeling that they’re floating, this elegant, yet lively eatery is a stimulus of the senses, both visual and of the palette. And the folks that work here are equally as gorgeous. Ask for a window table and then you can slide open the doors on a warm night and enjoy the happening atmosphere by the pool that’s a result of the beautiful people oozing out of the frenetic nightclub, XS.

We would have been satisfied just hanging out all night, but the food and service made our evening that much more enjoyable. Chef Mark LoRusso’s preparations paralleled the inspiring environment. We started with the seafood tower, which arrived dramatically at our table with four levels of lobster, crab, giant shrimp (now there’s an oxymoron), mussels and service of scallop. A feast from the sea, it was way enough for two folks, and a delicious presentation of delights smothered in fresh ice shavings ($65). Michael sampled the Waygu beefsteak tartar topped with a quail egg, and claimed that it rated amongst the best he’s savored ($19/$36).

Order a tasting of soup and choose any two. We tasted the English pea and the spring onion with Yukon potato, both of which were refined and superb. The pea soup was the color of pureed Gumby and distinctly fresh pea, containing just a touch of crème fraiche that appropriately offset the flavor of the soup. The onion soup was delicate and a turn on what we know as the standard, in that its consistency was combined and smooth. Coming in at a reasonable price of $12, this was filling and value at the same time.

The meats at Botero are so tender; the way it cuts off a knife is incomparable. Michael had the 20 oz bone-in Rib Eye that was so big, we could have played tennis with it ($62). It fell off the bone and was bursting with flavor, arriving at the table at exactly the right temperature. Scott had to have the brioche crusted Colorado rack of lamb that was served with delicate ricotta cannelloni and haricot verts. He asked for it medium rare, and it arrived medium rare—something a lot of shops have a difficult time producing.
The flavor was magnificent and the size of the portions was sufficiently large enough to leave some on the plate ($48). We combined all of this with a couple of glasses of the Tensely Syrah from Santa Barbara County, from Colson Canyon vineyard ($19). It’s full body and darker fruits stood up to the rich foods we ordered and was a brilliant suggestion by our terrific waiter, Thomas, who’s brother also happens to be one of the two sommeliers at Botero.

As if we weren’t already stuffed to the gills, we just had to have their traditional Valrhona chocolate soufflé ($12) that was baked to perfection and served with a unique coffee anglaise that totally complimented the chocolaty flavor. But that's not all they offer...

On the way out the door, we took another look at the giant Botero sculpture in the middle of the room and suddenly she didn’t seem so fat anymore. Scott could have sworn he saw her wink at him with a knowing smile.

Daniel Boulud Brasserie and the Lake of Dreams


Impossibly located on the edge of a man-made “Lake Of Dreams”, surrounded by a small forest of trees that change colors at the whim of the wizard behind the curtain who has created five different mini shows to overload your senses, this locale, along with it’s neighbors SW and Parasol Down, captures the magic and inspiration of Las Vegas. The restaurant’s windows slide open (when weather permits) to provide indoor and outdoor elegance that makes dining in this setting as “parfait” as the dishes that are served by celebrity Chef Daniel Boulud. Book way ahead for Table #101, (ask for the attentive service of Larry), on the edge of the restaurant’s outdoor patio and watch the landscape change from vibrant purple to iridescent green, while the show on the giant stacked stone waterfall screen appears every half hour; prepare to be dazzled.

It’s not all smoke and mirrors, like David Copperfield (interesting show, by the way, but disappointingly short, with only 5 or so illusions), however, as the food certainly holds up to the environment. Chef wanted this to be the quintessential brasserie and not fussy, so do not be hesitant to drop in for the pre-theatre menu served up to 7:00 pm, prix fixe at $36 or $42 with dessert, a great bargain for Las Vegas.

We recommend starting the a la carte menu with the Chicken Liver Mouse ($10), which was a “wow”; very reasonable and smooth, loaded with flavor and served appropriately chilled. This is a terrific way to begin your meal. Another dish not to be missed, is their Onion Soup ($14), loaded with Gruyere perfectly baked over the bowl, with a touch of Guinness. The creator of our other favorite onion soup (Chez Mimi, Santa Monica) has told us, “beer is the secret”. Now we are convinced this is what drives this potage to perfection and proves there is a definite distinction amongst onion soups.

An excellent alternative is the Artichoke Veloute soup ($14), accompanied with foie gras and a brioche crouton that is just as yummy as the resident sommelier, Gordon. Gordon, a cross between Patrick Wilson and Christian Bale (without the attitude, of course), brought us a wine list that included fantastic wines for less than $60 a bottle. In a particular, we enjoyed a glass of Chappellet by Napa Valley Vineyards, which was a 2006 Meritage that complimented our meals perfectly. At $16 a glass, it was full bodied, with notes of black cherry and black berries, and just as delicious as a French cab we tried for double the cost.

DB’s most renowned dish is their DB burger. This burger has received so much press that it’s virtually impossible to write anything without sounding redundant. Michael devoured the first bite and from that moment onward, it proved to be in a league of its own. It is 9 ounces stuffed with braised short ribs, foie gras accompanied by a black truffle Parmesan bun and, naturally, French fries. You must try this experience because your judgment of burgers will change forever, making it worth every bit of the $32.

The perfect ending to a perfect meal is always a dessert and there are plenty of choices, The Dining Duo highly recommends their house made ice creams, especially their coffee ice cream which is truly unparalleled with it’s coffee flavor and slight bit of flavorful crunch ($8). They also offer a delicious looking collection of artisan cheeses accompanied with dried and seasonal fruits, honey, nuts and bread…but we were too stuffed to try them this visit. Amongst the dazzling outdoor aesthetics, the fabulous food and the tres handsome sommelier, we highly recommend DB as stop on your LV trip. The best part was when we left satiated and slightly intoxicated, all we had to do was take an elevator to our elegant and comfy suite; Scott was the designated driver.


But hold on....we're not done raving. More fabulous food at the Encore/Wynn when we wrap it up with part three. Keep your eyes peeled and your stomachs empty...

Living Like a (Gay) Rock Star -- Part One

What happens in Vegas, you’ll run and tell all your friends; that’s what happens when you stay at the incomparable Encore, the continuing brainchild of Steve and Elaine Wynn.

As you know from our past articles, we had such a good time at the Encore (and barely left) last February we couldn’t stay away. And we promised you that we would check out the places we didn’t have time to experience the last time. We often hear people say, “what do we need a nice room for? how much time do you spend in a room”. This is tantamount to cursing for the Dining Duo, since we believe that a combo travel and dining experience starts and ends with a beautiful suite.

Sweet Suites

There are 2,800 rooms between the two hotels, and yet this place is run like an intimate family business—a family who cares about the family they invite over for the weekend. Ask anyone who works at the Wynn or Encore, and they will tell you unabashedly that they love Elaine and Steve. They treat their employees the way they would want to be treated, and unlike the other folks who hate you from the start (recently voted the worst airline in the U.S., by the way), the folks at the Wynn/Encore can’t wait to spread the love.

That love permeates both hotels in the most favorable results for us, the guests. As if we didn’t feel special enough during the first visit in the beautifully appointed suites that are currently being offered for a very reasonable rate ($159 when we went), we decided this time we wanted to share with you how you can live large without it costing you big bucks, leaving you money to toss on the gaming tables, or in the innumerable fabulous restaurants. In our opinions, in Las Vegas, no one does it better than the Wynns. And with all due respect to our myriad straight (but not narrow) readers, the Wynn’s have crossed yet another fabulous threshold by being one of the first in a major push to welcome the Gay, Lesbian, Bi and Transgender communities (see sidebar “LGBT Welcome Here”).

After arranging for the hotel to pick us up in a stretch Rolls Phantom so that we could immediately start feeling the vibe, we arrived at the Tower Suites private entrance and were greeted by a guest services representative as well as the valet. If you book a suite, gone are the days of three people changing your luggage so that you don’t know who to tip, or whether the luggage will make it to the room. Now, it was one guy (for us it was the friendly and accommodating Steve), and the beautiful Aisha who whisked us to the 20th floor where we entered our two- story suite (there are other smaller suites in the tower as well).

The door opened, and our mouths dropped. We are very seasoned world travelers, almost to the point of being jaded, but there was nothing typical about the lavish 5,800 square foot suite that opened before us. Once through the double doors, a two- story wall of glass encases a great room elegantly appointed in tones of yellow and gold, and anchored by a simple, yet dramatic giant yellow Murano chandelier. Yards of yellow and white curtains flowed from ceiling to floor, and the giant flat screen serenely played flower scapes that immediately set the tranquil tone that foiled the energy of the boulevard outside. On the opposing wall was a dramatic oil of predominantly red that tastefully appointed the massive scale of the room.

With a breathtaking view of Las Vegas out of each and every window, it was a toss up of where to look first. This suite had three gorgeous bedrooms that were large but not cavernous, complete with a phone system that operated the pop-up flat screen, curtains and lights. The beds are beyond comfortable, and the sheets (the larger suites even get linens that are more higher end) so elegant that you glide into them and never want to leave (all of this stuff, including the mattress, is available in their home store in the gallery of high-end shops). The bathrooms are spacious, filled with a unique yellow veined marble, and the walls are cleverly lined with what we remembered from childhood as shell placemats from the Philippines. There is every amenity known to mankind (the large sized Bambu products made expressly for Wynn Resorts are ubiquitous and exude tones of grasses that are crisp, delicate and refined), and the “throw-away” razors and toothbrushes come complete with a silver handle, a unique touch we’ve never seen; who could throw away such a thing of beauty?

Of course, there’s really no time for sleeping and bathing when the suite also comes with a screening room complete with pool table (they must change that felt after each visit as it seemed like a more interesting setting than the comfy beds…); an exercise and massage room; a private elevator between the two floors of the suite; and not one, but two kitchens (one on each level, lest the food get cold from running it up or down stairs). Although the décor is replete with mirrors and shiny brass detailing, it totally works with the warm tones throughout. The art is tasteful and authentic. We were ready to send for our dog, Triple, leave everything else behind, and move in permanently.

Assuming that you don't want to sport for the above, there are plenty of fabulous ways to live large at the Encore. The Parlor Suite is beautiful. The Salon Suite is Sensational. Need a bit more? The King Panorama Suite is, well, fit for a King; or a Queen.


You Can Come Home Again
Hungry from the easy one-hour flight, we dropped all our stuff and ran to Society, one of our favorite casual restaurants at the Encore (see prior article entitled: Encore: Bravo Act II, that we’ve listed sidebar for your convenience). Although we had “Sticky Buns” on our minds (and we’re not talking about those sticky buns by the pool, mind you), we knew that there were so many fabulous choices that would hit the spot. To our surprise, when we entered, the manager Patrick exclaimed, “It’s the Dining Duo! Welcome back”, and we knew we were right at home. This may be a hotel (Wynn & Encore) of massive dimension, but we haven’t been here for 3 months and they remembered us by name. Now that’s genuine hands on service (either that, or there are pictures of us at security with instructions to immediately remove us).

Roger Thomas, the main designer extraordinaire of the Encore’s public areas, told us at dinner one night that, “there are a lot of hotels that look good, but we take pains to make YOU look good in our hotel”. He couldn’t have put it better. Looking good at the Encore is easy, and by the way, there sure are a lot of good-looking guys and gals everywhere. Elaine Wynn could easily take the credit for so much of what makes us look good here, but she graciously insists that it’s all a result of collaborative efforts with everyone who worked on the hotel. Having said that, Elaine agrees that her favorite thing Roger has accomplished is that every design decision he makes is “informed, and connected to some scholarly thing in his history with which he’s identified.” She went on to share with us that, “It’s healthy to pursue excellence” and that’s what she and Steve have done at the Encore.

If you don’t like what you see, for some strange reason, wait a moment and you’ll have something else

Switch
Beyond unique, this restaurant changes faces more often than Joan Rivers. There is nowhere else in the world where dinner is theatre. Capturing the awe-inspiring drama of the retractable ceiling of La Serre in Paris, this experience cranks it up Vegas style. As you dine, every 30 minutes everything changes; the walls, the ceiling, even the décor. There are three variations and you won’t believe your eyes as the room around transforms itself. What could be more perfect for Scott, the Gemini.

The seafood and steak match the drama of the space with creations by Chef Rene Lenger (formerly of NY’s Michael Jordan’s Steak House and The Monkey Bar). His inspirations included some notable selections such as Sweet Corn Chowder ($17), one of the freshest tastiest chowders we’ve encountered. Also, don’t miss the Rack of Lamb at $42, which arrived just as Scott ordered, medium rare.

We aren't featuring any pictures for Switch because we want you to be surprised when your world turns upside down and back again. So ditch the kitch and make the Switch!

Part two and three are coming next...hold your breath for fabulous food from spectacular Encore/Wynn restaurants.

CECCONI'S

8764 Melrose Ave
West Hollywood, CA 90069
(310) 432-2000


The old Morton’s on Robertson and Melrose got such a fanatical face lift that it doesn’t even look like itself—the first time in L.A. history that getting too much work turned out to be a good thing.

From the moment we entered this new neighborhood magnet, we were immediately impressed with the transformation the designers had made of the old place. Gone were the cavernous ceilings and long walks to anonymous tables. Gone is half of the ugly parking lot in the front. Gone is boring food served by even more boring wait staff. What has replaced all this is a glimmering, comfortable and unpretentious restaurant that has exceptional, tasty food.

Half of the parking lot is now a private out-door patio which takes advantage of our wonderful L.A. weather. The inside opens to the patio, and consists of a few rooms that surround a happening bar scene (if there was ever a “Cheers” in L.A., this would be it). White Carrera marble laced with black veins graces the floors in and out, with blue leather chairs warming each dining area so that it always feels cozy and warm. The private dining room, which seats up to 30 people, is anchored by a million dollar Damien Hirst butterfly painting that’s in the form of a giant heart. The heart reflects the friendly and unpretentious atmosphere that is going to set this restaurant aside from the usual “we only have a reservation before 5 or after 9” crowd.

Even though the atmosphere is so comfortable and welcoming, it’s also about the food served here. There are three wood burning pizza ovens that burn olive branches for flavor (and the aroma will make you die for carbs). There are 4 to 5 seasonal pizzas that are served warm and crispy. Our personal over the top favorite was the white pizza with goat cheese and summer black truffles. Although priced at $28 because of the truffles, it was well worth it; with the rest of the pizzas coming out at $16-18, a very reasonable price since they are so filling.

We could eat the pizza and leave happy, but there’s so much more to keep you going throughout the day. In fact, C’s opens at 7:00am every day, and they welcome people to come in, have a coffee, read one of the many international newspapers they provide, eat, have a meeting, or just sit and enjoy the weather. Having said that, the breakfasts are sensational, so come hungry. It’s a real testament to chef Andreas Cavaliere (from Soho and Cecconi’s in London--see sidebar) because in Italy breakfast consists of a cappuccino and a cigarette. Despite that upbringing, we couldn’t stop eating his creations of pancakes stuffed with ricotta cheese ($8) and the scrambled eggs with shaved truffles both of which were home runs for taste and quality.

There are equally great choices for lunch and dinner, and you will not have a problem finding something you’ll like on this inviting menu, including the wait staff who were not only as tasty as the menu items, but also great servers. Ask for Josh, the nice Jewish boy from Atlanta, or Crystal, the cute blonde, depending upon your own tastes in servers. But back to what you can actually order off the menu.

The ricotta and spinach eggplant parm dish was classic Italian($16) and served in a copper pot that was so piping hot it could have burned a hole in the table. Layers of pasta oozing with cheese was perfectly cooked, proving yet again that the food is not fussy, but delicious and hearty, just as you would find in Italy, or London. Michael loved the Pappardelle with homemade sausage and morel mushrooms ($12 for small size, or $18 for large). There were long strands of flat pasta graced with enough pork sausage to fill you up without overwhelming the flavor; it was all served in a flavorful sauce that had a faint bite to it. Not a bite like our Scottish Terrier Triple might give you when grabbing his ball, but more like a little love bite your partner my give you after having eaten this dish. Scott loved the Summer squash and risotto, laced with aged balsamic. The balsamic was aged without vinegar so it was surprisingly sweet; combine this with the sweet squash and the result was a taste sensation that we would order again in an Italian minute.

The drinks and wines were plentiful, and we tasted a “75” 2005 Cabernet that was bold and flavorful at the bargain price of $12 a glass. Don’t leave without trying some of their terrific “dolci’s, such as the summer berries smothered in rich, creamy zabaglione. As much as we like chocolate, and that everyone seems to be doing a chocolate fondant these days, theirs gives the other restaurants a run for their money. It was rich and delicate, proving that they use a finer chocolate in their recipe. As much as Scott loves his chocolate, the apricot & amaretto tart was particularly yum with the right combination of sweet and tart, and set our taste buds wild. All desserts were $9.

So if you’re in the mood for good food, good friends, nice people, pretty atmosphere and a place you can hang out at without getting nasty looks from the staff, this is it, look no further. We can’t wait to go back and hang with the new friends we’ve met there, even if all they order is a cappuccino and a cig.

Mozza no Mezza !*

*(Mozza is not average!)

www.mozza-la.com
6602 Melrose Ave
Los Angeles, CA 90038
(323) 297-0100

You, our faithful reader, know that The Duo is always reviewing the newest hot spot. Even though there has been so much written about one of our favorite LA haunt’s, Pizzeria Mozza, we’re here to bring you news hotter than a wood-burning pizza oven: within a few short weeks, you will no longer have to stand in line to munch on the crackling crust to die for. Finally you’ll be able to get this extraordinary pizza to take home at, “Mozza2Go”, which is opening right next door the Osteria.

As you probably know, there is no accommodation at the present venue to provide for take out food. So this is great news for everyone wanting to sabotage his or her diets. In addition to obtaining a quick fix for your pizza habit, the new space will also serve as a private cooking school for you alone with the master of all things pizza, or for up to thirty of your most intimate friends.

The restaurant décor itself is nothing mesmerizing, but it serves as the tableau for an extraordinary selection of palette-pleasing pizzas and much, much more. It’s a simple, large room with high ceilings and a long bar stretching along two of the sidewalls. It’s dark ruby walls, wood floors, wood tables and simple hanging lights provide a din over which you’ll have to speak loudly, or simply replace the conversation with stuffing your face.

The Dining Duo has never walked out of Mozza hungry or dissatisfied. We would venture to say this is the best pizza that we have ever sunk our perfectly bleached teeth into. We owe this to the genius chefs Nancy Silverton of La Brea Bakery fame, and Mario Batali of Del Posto in NYC and B & B Ristoranti in Las Vegas. Between the La Brea Bakery incomparable dough and the simple but perennially fresh fare and spices (all from farmers’ markets), the taste sensations of everything we order is superb.

Our favorite is the house made Fennel Sausage, peppered with red onions and scallions at $15. Our modus operandi is to always order an appetizer and two pizzas. We highly recommend the Fried Squash Blossoms oozing with fresh ricotta ($8), which are lightly fried and served piping hot so the cheese melts in your mouth as the flavors devour your taste buds. Scott is not a meat eater but savors the sauce of the Meatballs al Forno ($12). In that dish, there are three balls (the oddity of such not lost on us) that are spiced just right and served with, once again that fabulous La Brea bread, and accompanied by lots of marinara sauce. We are both corn eaters and the Corn al forno ($8) is a corn on the cob sensation that is served golden brown in spots, which we love. There are three pieces that arrive piping hot at your table by very friendly runners. Speaking of friendly, Pilar, our waitress was nice, pretty and spoke with a slight lisp that was either from eating hot pizza sauce, or hailing from Spain.

If it’s the season (only a couple of months a year), try the Ramps, guanciale with English Peas and panna pizza ($18), a leek and scallion combination, albeit overly salty, is an opportunity to try something unique and usually unavailable. All of this good cookin’ can be accompanied by a wine list that is extremely unique, composed of 50 wines under $50. Chris Miller, the wine director, will suggest something perfect for your wine palette.

The desserts looked yummy, but who ever has room after stuffing yourself full of everything and anything on the menu. Of note is the caramel copetta with marshmallow sauce and salted Spanish Peanuts ($9). Then waddle back to your car (park on the street and avoid the expensive valet parking) and wish that you were Karen Carpenter.

The Dining Duo’s Note: There are no food pictures for this piece because we were asked by the staff not to use a camera in the restaurant.

ENCORE! BRAVO! Act II

If you didn't catch our first review of this most fabulous follow-up by Steve and Elaine Wynn, check it out just below this review. If you do anything at all in Vegas, you MUST experience the Spa for an afternoon of hedonistic treatments, with a follow-up dinner at one of Vegas's finest: Alex

THE SPA AT ENCORE
Let’s put it this way, their motto is, “The Spa was designed around the most important person in the world: “you”; and they mean it. It’s hard to get the Duo tongue tied for superlatives, but the spa experience here did just that. Todd-Avery Lenahan designed the spa (and The Salon) to make a statement, but instead it screams an exclamation. The meditative aesthetic of Buddhism and elemental mentality of Feng Shui was his inspiration.

Upon arrival, you are welcomed to a vaulted, softly lit and glass enclosed courtyard that is as grand as one would imagine the glory days of Rome. There is a lavishly equipped fitness center for those of you crazy enough to want to exercise off the meals, 37 treatment rooms, 14 naturally lit garden rooms and 4 giant couples’ suites (all housed in a 61,000 square foot facility), where you can languish in body treatments, massages, facials and where every treatment is tailored to your body and your personal needs.

Okay, this just sounds “big” but it was so amazing the Duo spent about 4 hours one day just feeling special in this cocooned and luxurious environment. The men’s locker rooms were like a living room, the décor was so tasteful we wanted to copy it for our home, and the service was top notch without being intrusive. The wet area had two giant pool-sized Jacuzzis with cold dips, and water-treatment showers and the most comfortable day beds to do nothing but contemplate your navel. A waterfall of crystals falls from the ceiling. As if this were not enough, the treatment rooms are down a hallway that is majestically peaceful and perfectly set with river rocks, pots of cascading water and Moroccan lamps, your bones and muscles melt before you hit the massage table.

Michael and Scott each experienced different treatments, one body and scalp massage, one wrap, facial and massage, and the technicians were unusually perfect for a hotel. The signature treatment is an 80-minute Good Luck Ritual Massage, representing the five elements of Feng Shui -- health, wealth, prosperity, happiness and harmony. It's a general body massage with heated Thai herbs and exfoliating products applied on the extremities and additional scalp treatment. It was 4 of the best hours spent on this trip; so if you like a spa experience, do not miss this one for any reason under the sun (treatments range anywhere from $85 - $500 for a couples massage).

It was then time to freshen up for dinner and take a little walk via the shops in the Esplanade of course to the Wynn Hotel. The Esplanade at Encore consists of a selection of 11 boutiques. The edgy Rock & Republic, the distinguished Hermès and the eternally classic Chanel anchor an array of clothing, shoe, jewelry, home décor and accessory stores. Have everything delivered to your room, and now it’s time for fine dining.

ALEX

Take a mortgage on your home (if it’s not already back to the bank), sell the kids, pimp out your partner, do what you need to do to get here for a night of luxurious eating. Elaine Wynn oversaw this room and her taste and attention to detail seep into every corner of the place. World class dining is the cornerstone of the Wynn dining experience, and with it comes world-class chef’s who actually cook in the kitchen, not just lend their names. Chef Alessandro Stratta brings the exquisite flavors of Riveria cuisine right to your plate.
You enter the voluptuous room from an elevated landing so that the view is down and into one of the most elegantly appointed and inviting rooms we’ve seen. From the hand-made Moreno glass chandeliers dripping from the ceiling to the diamond-shaped wood paneling and matching cut crystal glass doors, your first impression makes you forget to breathe. Amongst rivers of drapes, you waltz down the grand staircase like Vivian Lee in Gone with the Wind and get to see and be seen by the who’s who of Vegas who clamor for a much needed reservation. The elegance of the environment is only outdone by the meal.

We enjoyed the tasting menu, which was memorably sublime. We are questioned as to how anyone can justify spending $375 per person (exclusive of tax and tip) for food, but we report here and now that it was worth every penny. You don’t have to order the tasting menu, although it would be sad to come here and not experience Chef’s mastery at so many levels. This was our second experience here in a few years, and we report that it is as fresh as the first time we experienced it. We sampled such delectable items as their Veal sweetbread Fricassee that comes with ricotta gnocchi and the requisite black ruffles. Michael is the true truffle lover but Scott has begun to appreciate them. It seems that, of late, there are fine menus offering Braised Short rib, but, Alex’s is made with Waygu beef which takes this dish to the next level, it is flawlessly seasoned with sweet onions and accompanied by Parmigiano potatoes.

The magic of the tasting menu is the extraordinary experience of pairing magnificent and hard to come by wines with each course. The Master Sommelier, Paolo Barbieri, one of less than 80 in this country and 125 worldwide (although of note, 12 are located in Las Vegas), and a personality as bold as his wines, has acquired vinos from around the world that are so small they can pick and choose to whom they will deliver. Normally these wines are out of reach in price, but the chef’s menu allows the possibility of sampling a glass of each, such as a Muscato from Greece, which can only be compared to one of our favorite, orgasmic like wines, Chateau d’yquem. If you ask, Paolo, will show you his private reserve in the heavily guarded wine cellar where we were fortunate enough to hold a $32,000 bottle of wine from the 1800’s.

It should be enough to believe the Dining Duo when we say something is a memory of eating we’ll take with us through life, but if not, how about the fact that Alex has been awarded Mobil 5 Star Award for 2007 and 2008, AAA 5 Diamond Award of Excellence for 2007 and 2008, James Beard Foundation Award for Best American Chef/Southwest and two Stars Michelin for 2008. There’s no doubt all of these awards will be heaped on Alex for 2009.

After all this wine and food, hit the tables, stop and shop in the Esplanade on the way back to Encore, and stumble upstairs to a magnificent room overlooking the strip to get an amazingly good night’s sleep. There just aren’t enough hours in the day to experience all that Encore has to offer, which is why we’ll be coming back soon to review the sizzling club atmosphere of XS, Vegas’s new nightclub pool-and-island bar scene, Switch, the French inspired restaurant that literally changes décor every thirty minutes, Botero, featuring art and steak, and sprawling warm weather pool scene imbibed with all the energy of the French Riviera. The only question is how soon can we get back here?

Soon, because there's still Encore's dining at Botero and Switch to review, as well as nightspots XS, Tryst and Blush.

Living Large in Las Vegas

Bravo. Encore!

Encore Las Vegas
702. 770-7171 for hotel reservations
888. 320-7110 for dinner reservations

There’s the train of thought that a “junior” is never quite as good as the “senior”; a copy of an original is somewhat less than. Throw that concept out along with the fear that you can’t afford Vegas in these tough times. Steve and Elaine Wynn have brought us Vegas like you’ve never seen before, and this time it’s on steroids: The Encore Hotel and Spa.

You might as well plan on spending your entire stay at the Encore (with a field trip to the neighboring Wynn), because there is so much to do, see, and eat that there’s no need to go anywhere else. At the end of the famed Las Vegas Strip, the gold shimmering Encore is a product of imaginative genius and detail that one-ups its already superlative neighbor. From the exquisite tropical flowers in the lobby to the seamless and friendly check-in, we knew we were in for a treat.

Arriving on the 61st floor (we suggest booking a strip-view room, and hook a right when you exit the elevators for a room as far in that direction as possible), we opened the doors to sweet suite that has absolutely outdone anything we’ve seen in Vegas before.
Some creepy owner somewhere once thought that ugly rooms will keep people on the casino floors spending, but finally the Wynns have realized that indulgence, sophistication and luxury only encourage you to open your wallets all the more. There are Salon and Tower suites on each floor that range from an unheard of 1,408 to 2,261 square feet of exquisite marble bathrooms, handsome wood furniture and electric curtains that open to floor to ceiling, wall to wall awe-inspiring views of the strip and the mountainous desert beyond. Like flies, we had our noses glued to the window taking in the scene like a kid waiting in line at Disneyland for that ride on the Matterhorn. Add in an abundantly comfortable bed with divine sheets and beyond-soft down pillows, and you have a win-Wynn situation.

SINATRA’S

Man cannot live by a fabulous hotel room alone, one must eat; and eat is what we kept doing. The first stop for dinner must be Frank’s place. If you like Italian, you will love this restaurant. Steve Wynn sets the tone at the door with a picture of his young self with Frank, and when you swing through the doors, with the sound of Frankie swooning in the background, and non-stop Sinatra movies playing in the bar, you feel as though you’ve arrived in Frank’s personal dining room. Elegant and comfortable, the light wood paneling centers a simple 50 x 100 photo of Frank. The soft orange tablecloths offset the giant green chandeliers that have a slight pagoda look. There is an expansive wall of windows that overlook lush formal Italian gardens, complete with pergolas and fireplaces, where you can dine during the warm weather nights. The details to be served on your plate are initiated with even the fine linen napkins, embroidered with butterflies, all to compliment the smart leather chairs.

The Dining Duo always hates when a waiter says, “everything on the menu is good”, so it pains us to relay that, everything on the menu is not good; it’s great. The sommeliers at all of the Wynn restaurants are top notch, so we threw ourselves into their hands at each restaurant, asking for appropriate pairings.
Executive Chef (and one heck of a nice guy) Theo Schoenegger, has created a menu that is simple, but sublime. We suggest starting with the Cappesante ($21), which was a most unusual combination of seared Maine diver scallops, celery and kumquats. It practically melted on our tongues and we are not even scallop fans. The Zuppa di Fagioli (no comments please, and it was $15) was light and flavorful as it offset the bean soup with tubettini and garlic and rosemary oil.
Butternut squash is becoming de rigeur as of late, but Frank’s puts a spin on theirs by adding vanilla and amaretto which sets it apart from the pack.

There is a dish which we have to rate amongst the best we ever tasted and we can not recommend it highly enough: Uovo in Raviolo, Parmigiano-Reggiano, Truffled Beurre Noisette, quite simply this is soft boiled egg in a ravioli with black truffles ($25). When you break the egg yoke and it combines with the other pasta ingredients, it creates a taste sensation that is unparalleled.

It’s a shame you can eat both meat and a fish entree, because the dishes are fabulous. Scott had the Black cod with lentils, celery puree, pancetta and vinaigrette ($45) that proved to be tender and succulent. Michael, the meat eater, devoured the Ossobuco “My Way”. The veal was, well, like “butta” and was served with risotto cannelloni for ($49). There are only four side dishes, Rapini, Ratatouille, Mashed potatoes and wild mushroom sauté ($9 - $12), and we particularly enjoyed the blend of spices in the vegetable ratatouille. Ready to burst, we only tried two desserts, the chocolate sweetheart cake and pumpkin cheesecake, both scrumptious and accompanied by Dow’s 1985 Vintage port and Cockburn’s ten-year-old Tawny port. One should allow Jennifer Eby, the wine manager, to pick out pairings for each course as her choices were nothing short of brilliant. Sadly we had to cut the dining experience short because we were rushing to see Elton John in one of his last performances, and at the end of the show we got to work off the calories because we went on stage and danced and sang around his piano with about 30 of our closest new friends.


SOCIETY

Waking up to this amazing view, we worked up quite a hunger for brunch, and although there are so many choices, the one you simply cannot miss is Society. Elizabeth Blou conceptualized an Oscar Wilde feel for the room, and it proved to be a perfect place to snuggle into and stuff our faces. The décor is opulent, done up in greens and vibrant pinks, framed by lush green and white striped curtains that surround a room of coffered walls and rich paneled walls. The Asian theme is carried over here too with the accents of lime green chandeliers and two giant kensha palms in Asian pots. The black crocodile chairs and tables make the room come alive.


Be prepared to gorge on everything breakfast (there’s more, but this place is “it” for breakfast items). The sticky bun is the best, sweet, most fabulous sinful experience you can have this side of a downtown girlie bar. Piping warm, you can feel the cholesterol coating your pipes. Don’t miss it. The waffle was made with pumpkin and pecans and slathered in butter ($15), and was a sweet tooth’s fantasy. The French toast was surrounded with cornflakes, proving a nice texture and flavor. It was decadent and rich, but certainly hits the spot, especially with the serving of caramelized bananas and chocolate cream ($14). The Eggs Benedict were superb, primarily because of the homemade muffins. The eggs were perfectly cooked, soft on the inside, firm on the outside; and the Hollandaise was gooey and fresh ($15). Do not leave without trying Society’s signature dish, the ultimate Steak and egg sliders. The beef tenderloin, scrambled eggs and creamed spinach were all on a bacon-cheddar muffin ($16) and you simply cannot believe that something could taste so good. Wash it down with a great Caesar Bloody Mary (spiced like a Caesar salad), and you’re ready to hit the spa. By the way, Patrick is the manager and if you mention the Dining Duo, he’ll get you past the ubiquitous line to enjoy all of the above.

WAZUZU

Still hungry? No problem, you don’t have to walk far. Encore created Wazuzu restaurant, a pan-Asian bistro with a gorgeous red and white intimate dining room that sets the stage for the meal, with Thai-American Chef Jet Tila conducting the orchestra. Anchored by a giant Swarovski crystal dragon that took thirteen months to create, white leather booths and chairs are splayed over a carpet of multicolored fans, with accents of gold leafed giant pears.

Jet, an approachable, affable and beyond creative chef has enjoyed an interesting background of writing for the L.A. Times, working for his family in the restaurant biz, and as a private chef for Reba MCintyre and Jim Belushi. He has Grace, Boulevard and The Hungry Cat under his belt as well, but this time Steve Wynn allowed him to bring not a fusion or Asian flavors but an array of tastes from all regions of Asia: Chinese, Japanese, Indian, Singaporean, and Thai cuisines. It’s all about “Sebai Sebai”, which in Thai, means “easy going” or “comfort”. The Dining Duo loved spending Valentine’s Day here (and our 23rd anniversary) because the place is comfort, while screaming red, as well as passion.

At Wazuzu, Chef strives for a balance of tastes: hot, salty, sour and sweet, resulting in what the Thai’s call “yum”, a midpoint between these four flavors which result in balance. We found this balance in so many taste treats that our stomach said “yum” over and over again. If you’re daring, ask to try the Bitter Melon with minced pork and 1000 year old egg ($28), a classic Chinese dish with detox health benefits which Americans don’t have the taste for but Michael loved. Another classic taste treat is the Northwest Roll ($30), spicy tuna expertly chosen with salmon sashimi, and, if you ask, their home made Wsasabi.

We’ve been told that the way to judge Thai food is by their Thom Khar soup and chef Jet tested his out on his; it should be on the menu shortly and it was sensational, once again, the perfect blend that he had mentioned to us. Be sure and try the Roti Panang ($12), the velvety curry chicken, which is creamy, and the curry taste is not overwhelming, it is just perfect.

The average check at Wazuzu is about $45 per person and it may be one of the best deals in town and on your way out, cleanse your palate with their Ice Kachang, straight out of Singapore, ($9), shaved ice and red beans with tropical fruit.

Think you've had enough? Stay tuned for next week's encore review of The Encore, with more raves to come.

Appetizingly yours,

The Dining Duo

FOURTEEN FABULOUS REASONS TO GO TO XIV

XIV by Michael Mina
8117 Sunset Blvd.
West Hollywood, CA 90046 323-656-1414

1. Michael Mina, Chef extraordinaire (with “Best Chef” accolades from Bon Appetit, San Francisco Magazine and the James Beard Foundation, from San Francisco) has opened his fourteenth restaurant with Chef Steven Fretz, and his very first in L.A (after cutting his chops at the Bel Air Hotel as a pastry chef 20 years ago), located at the former Coconut Teaser, a place we all know, but never visited. MM has changed that forever with a twelve million dollar renovation.

2. French designer Philippe Starck has created yet another amazing environment with the juxtaposition of an interior that honors Louis IV on one half of the restaurant, as contrasted by a steel bar and stainless walls honoring aliens on the other side. As if air lifted from a French Chateau, the ying of this space is homage to a time gone by, filled with opulent warm wood paneling, random stacked books, a mélange of comfy sofas, tables and fireplaces adorned with candles and pictures. The yang space makes you remember that you’re in L.A. in 2009 and that the only thing that stays the same is change.
3. With myriad seating choices from red leather sofas to comfy French-inspired chairs, we were seated at a wood table that provided a bird’s eye view of the action in the main dining room; and we do mean action as there is apparently no recession at this venue, and with good cause.
4. XIV is a unique dining experience. It melds impeccable modern American cuisine with the concept of “social dining” to foster a dynamic and engaging atmosphere. The diverse and fabulous menu is based on individual tasting portions, and although it is recommended that the table order the same items, they are more than willing to accommodate food tastes and orientations (we ordered the Beef Carpaccio, seasoned perfectly with horseradish, but since Scott doesn’t eat meat, they served (from an entire vegan menu) Beet Carpaccio. Although the concept is at first a bit perplexing, the truth is that it allows you to share the same dining experience without the hassle of splitting and stealing food off your partner’s plate.
5. You can create the ultimate tasting menu, at $8 per course, or order one from the Chef, which is exactly what we did, which consisted of—bet you can’t guess—fourteen scrumptious courses ($95). No matter when you go, no dining experience will be the same, making it fun and interesting as well as beyond delicious.
6. The menu is arranged in categories of shellfish, garden veggies, fish, poultry and light meats, cheese and chocolates, fruits and nuts.
7. It’s difficult to choose highlights of the menu as—honestly—almost everything was a stand-alone stand out. That said, do not miss Foie Gras Terrine, with cranberry and Greek yogurt, one of Scott’s favorite dishes that chef Steven brings to an entirely new level.
8. The Jidori chicken which comes out of their own Jidori oven with truffled mac & cheese was divine; the Dining Duo loves the new Mac n’ cheeses out there, but this is the definite winner. It is accompanied with traditional house made Nan bread and a medium spiced Feta cheese (as all their dishes are).
9. Michael’s caviar parfait offers some competition to our perennial favorite at Per Se, in New York. It is prepared with a selection with Osetra and American farm raised caviars, which are superb, and a must if you have not tried them.
10. The hamachi sashimi is so fresh that you swear it was just fished.
11. The chilled Maine lobster with potatoes, celery and truffles created a new level for a standard; and we can never get enough truffles.
12. We suggest the wine pairings so that you can experience the large and varied selections of wines that enhance each dish served. The list is from an eclectic list of small producers that come primarily from Europe and California.
13. There is an outdoor patio that looks so sexy and inviting, we can’t wait for a warm night to experience the elegance of a marble bar, teak benches and romantic chandeliers;
14. After an eating orgy that will leave your stomach satiated and your brain wine-soaked,
XIV will happily call their sister hotel, the brand new SLS on La Cienega (review coming soon), who will pick you up in a limo and give you a deep discount on a room for the night. This seemed like a great plan to us…but the doggie was at home patiently awaiting our arrival, review and doggie bag.

Beautiful People -- Gung Hay Fat Choi -- Happy Chinese New Year!

The Kress
6608 Hollywood Blvd
Hollywood, CA 90028
Phone: (323) 785-5000
Hours: Sun, Tues, Wed 5 - 10 pm, Thu-Sat 5 - 11 pm

The Dining Duo has never been much for old Hollywood. The traffic is bad, the streets are dirty and crowded, and the homeless and hucksters are plentiful; but every now and then we are proven wrong, and The Kress takes full credit for us eating our hats, seasoned and cooked to perfection, of course.

Like a mirage, the moment you open the door to this palace of a restaurant, it is clear that you’ve arrived into something special. The main dining room is cavernous (seating 175), yet richly warm, if not exotic. It is framed by a gigantic Asian-inspired chandelier that looks like an upside-down cake and seems to be back-lit by red neon. Our eyes took in the giant golden booths that afford a sense of privacy, as well as the comfy banquettes and tables. Above, the intricately wood carved ceilings were itself a thing of beauty and painstakingly restored to its 1930s splendor; and this was only the dining room. After spending nearly 30 million dollars on dolling up the old Kress department store (which was more recently, Fredericks of Hollywood), the San Diego based visionaries created a 38,000 square foot, 5 floor city exotica offering the beautiful people everything from affordable fabulous dining, to a giant curved sushi bar overlooking the main room, to hob-knobbing with the likes of LL Cool J, The Pussycat Dolls, Rihanna, Chris Brown, Justin Timberlake, and more.

Now back to the food, and it was terrific. After being seated in one of those giant gold round booths by a gorgeous girl, the equally gorgeous Nate rushed us water, while the well-trained and informed (and cute) Mathew came right to our aid with food suggestions. Chef Travis Kamiyama has taken over the business and menu planning aspects, and after opening a host of restaurants since he was 14, it shows. Chef loves bringing people of all varieties together and bridging the gap through food, and he’s reduced the original prices to do so.


The Chef is Japanese born and American raised, and his food is Asian-inspired, reflecting elements of Korean, Chinese, Japanese and other Southeast Asian locales. The highlights are the sushi, wok items and the grill. He uses only the finest blue-finned tuna, the king of all tunas, selecting those nearly translucent fishes originating from Spain, Malta and Croatia. The Blue-eyed tuna is from Hawaii, and the meat of the fish we experienced was super red, not showing a lot of fat. The Lobster hails from the North Atlantic coast, and the Kompachi is from Japan. No scrimping here.


Reflecting an “Eo Mae” style from Tokyo, none of the dishes we tasted were overly sauced like many restaurants we’ve experienced as of late. Even the rice served is freshly milled right at the restaurant, ensuring freshness and quality of taste.


The standout were so many but don’t miss the Lamb Chops with some caramelized onions at $22, which Scott particularly enjoyed.
Michael loved the Kobe Beef (American, but tasted close to Japanese) at $39 in a red wine reduction sauce. The Crispy Spicy Tuna Roll gives Katsu ya and every other sushi restaurant in town a run for their money at $18, it was fresh and delicately prepared. The daily fish inspiration, sea bass, was indeed inspired in its ultimate freshness and its light flavor ($24).
We weren’t crazy about the chocolate dessert we tasted, but the plate of five Crème Brulees in sake cups
more than made up for it. Each one had its own unique flavors, ranging from vanilla to peanut butter, and it was out of this world. Hard to believe we had room after the eat-a-thon to devour desert, but it was well worth the calories and the price at $8. We’re anxious to go back and try their warm Banana Split ($23).

For something unique and European, as well as Eastern, this is the place. Come for the food, take in the fabulous décor, drool over the people and spend the night wandering the building—downstairs to the Kress basement nightclub, upstairs to the happening rooftop bar that’s bubbling with energy and raging hormones. Just don’t valet park your car, or it could set you back $20 bucks. Never mind, we parked on the street.